Pinotage is a grape that was once considered the savior of the South African wine trade. A grape born in South Africa from a crossing of two classic French varietals (Pinot Noir and Cinsault), that if grown well could potentially have all the elegance of great red Burgundy and the rustic charm of the Languedoc under the same cork. The concept was simple. Every major wine region has an identity that came about through random twists of fate or decisions made by monks, or lords, or farmers, or immigrants at some point in history. Perhaps Pinotage could provide the big break that South Africa needed.
In the 19th century, South Africa was being ruled by the British. The South African wine trade was flourishing because of the British market and its support of the region. This all came to a screeching halt in 1860 when the British government signed a treaty with the French which reduced duties on imported goods and supported trade between the two countries. Wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy that were previously very expensive dropped in price and imports of French wine to Britain soared, while South African wine imports plummeted. Shortly after, the Phylloxera aphid began destroying the greatest vineyards in Europe and spread outward to almost every major wine growing region in the world, South Africa included. Vineyards were devastated and the South African wine industry was once again forced to start over, replant, and search for its place as a force in the international wine scene.
The farmers and winemakers that remained dedicated to the industry planted new grape varietals in the region, with a focus on durability, drought resistance, and heavy yields. In 1925 at Stellenbosch University Dr. Abraham Perold, who was the first professor of viticulture at the school, created the first Pinotage vines by crossing the durable Cinsault (which was also known as Hermitage) with the finicky Pinot Noir. Perolds Hermitage, also known as Pinotage, was born. Because the vine was hardy and easy to cultivate, plantings of the new grape vine spread throughout the region over the next 40 years, and South Africa had its newest star on the international stage. The wine Pinotage produces is a dry, moderately tannic red wine, with Pinot Noir like acidity and big amounts of red and black fruit. Which seems perfectly in line with Dr. Perold’s initial vision for the grape crossing. Unfortunately, the wine has also been described as smelling like burnt rubber, wet paint, and blood. Aromas which are a bit less appealing to the typical wine consumer. It is this love-hate relationship that follows South African Pinotage today. There are defenders and detractors on both sides of the line, yet the fact remains that Pinotage is one of South Africa’s most common wine associations. While it represents only 6% of total vineyard acreage in the country (about 15,000 acres) and the most planted red grape variety in the country is Cabernet Sauvignon, it is still a major symbol of South African viticulture. It will be interesting to see if the next generation of South African winemakers, who are pushing the post apartheid modernization of the industry, have the same affection for the 90 year old grape varietal, or if it will fall out of fashion and become another dead wine trend.