Shortly after becoming interested in wine is when I discovered my love for Viognier. My Sommelier studies brought me to the South of France, where I found myself walking through a Viognier vineyard in the 2nd week of October, just days before the harvest was set to take place. I will never forget that experience. The vineyard is nestled high on a hill, at the Southern edge of Gigondas where the Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes du Rhône and Séguret appellations come together. The smell of the vineyard, the soft buzzing of bees, the imposing backdrop of snow capped Mount Ventoux, and the wonderful glass of Viognier in my hand that seemed to perfectly capture all of these elements together was a thing to behold. This is one of my fondest wine memories, and this is why I love Viognier.
Viognier is most notably grown in France, in the Northern section of the Rhône River Valley, specifically in the appellations of Condrieu and Château-Grillet. How and when the grape was originally introduced to the region remains a mystery. The most popular theory is that it was brought in from Dalmatia around 300 AD by the romans, to supplement vineyards that were destroyed during a local revolution. DNA testing on the grape has concluded that it is genetically related to the famous Northern Italian grape Freisa, and is cousins to the even more famous grape Nebbiolo. The wines popularity in the region eventually waned, and local winemakers didn’t want to deal with the headaches brought on by Viogniers unpredictable yields, and painstakingly slow ripening process. Vineyards were replanted, and by the the middle of the 20th century Viognier was on the verge of extinction. It is believed that in the 1960’s, there were as few as 15 acres (6 hectares) left of the grape growing in Condrieu. Today the grape is experiencing a revival, and you can find significant plantings in the United States, New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, and Argentina.
The reason I especially love Viognier during this time of year is because the grape produces a full-bodied white wine that is deeply aromatic and floral, while still remaining moderate to low in acidity. Peaches, apricots, orange blossom, honeysuckle and citrus peel aromas are not uncommon, and the wine has a rich creamy texture. The best examples find a balance between all of those delicate aromas, yet still maintain a moderate level of alcohol. Food pairings with the wine are perfect for Fall, as dishes move away from the lean summer fare and start incorporating heavier components. Dishes that are too subtle or don’t possess enough weight would be overpowered by Viognier and its big bodied nature. My all time favorite pairing for the wine is a simply prepared cheese plate, a couple crusts of bread, with an assortment of nuts, and a dollop of orange marmalade or peach jam. Back from the brink of extinction, Viognier will always hold a special place in my heart, and will always find itself on my dinner table during the Fall.